Following the release of a renowned mountaineer’s diver from the 1970s and a solar chronograph inspired by the 1990s, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model from its archives – the Navigator Timer from 1968. Called the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411, this remake draws its inspiration from the brand’s first dual time zone watch that featured a 24-hour rotating bezel but has been given a modern update with a new calibre and slight tweaks to its dial design.
Initial thoughts
Amongst vintage Seikos, the Navigator Timer has garnered praise comparable to its diving and chronograph counterparts. And the Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design, with minor dial adjustments.
It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch, featuring an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that configuring the time for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable.
Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less enthused by the substantial production of 4,000 pieces, which diminishes its rarity. However, this aspect can be pardoned considering its affordability.
A modern Navigator Timer
The SPB411 is a reimagining of the original Navigator Timer that was first introduced in 1968. It has a tonneau case with a crown positioned at four and a brushed grey dial with block-style applied markers. The crucial rotating bezel has also made a return, featuring a black-filled engraved 24-hour scale and a white pip at the 24-hour mark.
The primary difference between the remake and the original lies in the dial design. While retaining its radial brushed finish, the remake eliminates the “Waterproof” markings below 12 and enlarges the size of the date window at three, resulting in a less cluttered dial.
Furthermore, the watch preserves the core style of the Navigator Timer with its compact case dimensions, measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm high. The remaining aspects of the design adhere to the traditional Seiko aesthetic, with brushed steel surfaces along the case and a screw-down case back. Similarly, Seiko has treated the case with a “super-hard coating” that according to the brand, enhances scratch resistance.
The SPB411 is equipped with the cal. 6R54, which is also present in the Prospex Diver’s GMT. This is a modified version of the automatic cal. 6R35 movement, incorporating a second time zone hand and extending the power reserve to 72 hours. To configure the second time zone, one must first align the watch to local time and then engage the crown in its second position: rotating it clockwise moves the 24-hour hand forward while turning it counterclockwise adjusts the date.
Key facts and price
Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition
Ref. SPB411
Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and second time zone hand
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Matching bracelet
Limited edition: 4,000 pieces
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and retailers starting November 2023
Price: US$1,600
For more information, visit Seikowatches.com.