A common greenwashing tactic prevalent in luxury fashion is the use of the word vegan to portray the illusion of eco-friendly products. However, vegan does not always mean sustainable or ethical. Most vegan leather products are actually made from petroleum-based plastics, most commonly: polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (vinyl or PVC).
Similar to most plastics, PU and PVC are derived from petroleum or natural gas, and take centuries to break down. When assessing the sustainability credentials of vegan leather, it’s necessary to look at its raw properties and how it’s made.
“In the end, finding vegan materials is easy — finding vegan materials combined with sustainability and quality is hard,” says Edwards.
Producing small batches of handbags in Porto, Portugal, a city known for its leather, Lost Woods works with skilled artisans with years of experience in the leather-making business.
To make its vegan leather, Lost Woods uses a plant-based material, named MIRUM, made from natural tree rubber, natural fibers and fillers, plant oils, and waxes, backed with natural cotton. “Testing has found MIRUM to be incredibly tear, abrasion, water and UV resistant, and it is now approved for use under stringent automotive industry quality standards,” reports Edwards.
To ensure supply chain safety, Lost Woods requires her partners to sign the Fair Labour Agreement, which establishes minimum wage, overtime pay, record-keeping, and child labor standards. Also embracing a commitment to ethical practices, Immaculate Vegan requires a rigorous questionnaire for all brands, ensuring sustainability and ethics in the four key sectors: materials, manufacturing processes, packaging, and ethical labor.