Like many classic men’s garments, bomber and flight jackets were originally created as highly functional workwear for members of the military. But what’s the difference between these closely related pieces of outerwear? And how can you incorporate a bomber or flight jacket into your wardrobe?
What is a Bomber Jacket? Outerwear for Military Pilots
The “bomber” or “flight” jacket is a general term that describes a set of characteristics that was originally derived from military-issue jackets from the first half of the 20th century. The original bomber jacket was designed to keep the wearer warm in very cold temperatures, and most bomber jackets today retain many of the same features that made it so iconic in the first place.
Traditional bomber jackets are typically constructed from leather, sheepskin, or fabric. The jacket is cut at waist length, is closed with a zipper or buttons, and features elasticized cuffs and a hem. The collar can be worn flipped up and secured around the throat for extra protection from the elements.
Keeping Out The Cold
Elasticized cuffs and a hem ensure that the bomber jacket retains tight to the wrist and body, therefore retaining as much warm air inside the jacket. It’s this trapped warm air that keeps you nice and toasty when wearing a bomber jacket, so it’s vital to have a close seal at points to reduce heat loss.
What’s the Difference Between a Bomber Jacket and a Flight Jacket?
Bomber jackets are often called flight jackets, and in fact, the terms can be used interchangeably to refer to one garment. A flight jacket and a bomber jacket will typically feature many similar characteristics, so whichever term you prefer to use is going to be describing the same garment.
Practical Design
Plentiful pockets are characteristic design features for bomber and flight jackets. While the exact number of pockets may vary from one style to the next, there is an emphasis on the utility pockets give.
Technically speaking, the flight jacket refers to any style of jacket with aviation roots. Bomber jackets are a nickname that’s stuck through the years, as they describe the military-issued outerwear worn by bomber plane pilots.
Bomber & Flight Jacket History
The Evolution of Vehicular Outerwear
The history of automotive travel is quite interesting, and the early days of transportation show a distinct lack of weather protection for the person in charge of the vehicle. Whether driving a motor car or piloting a plane, the majority of vehicles bore an open cockpit.
This inspired the creation of vehicle-specific outerwear. Car drivers (and passengers) wore very long, heavy overcoats that acted like big blankets to add warmth and protection against anything unsavory being kicked up off the roads. When it came to flying, these coats were far too long. The cockpit of a plane had far less room, and the pilot had to enter and exit vertically, unlike a motor car where one simply stepped in and out via a door.
The length was the first thing to change when designing flight jackets, and they were cut much shorter than car coats at the time. Next, it was time to tackle the elements at altitude.
Bomber Jackets in the First World War
As the jacket was further refined by the military to protect pilots from all many types of weather conditions, it was important they had water-resistant qualities. In World War I, the performance materials of the day were all natural products, so flight jackets were constructed of sheepskin, fur, and tough leather. This resulted in jackets boasting heavy insulation, tight closures around the waist, wrist, and neck, and a tough, weather-resistant exterior.
If you’re a film fan, you may have seen an approximation of a flight jacket from this era in the 2021 film “The King’s Man”. A prequel to the previous installments of the Kingsman franchise, the events take place shortly before and during the first world war. Ralph Fiennes’ character, The Duke of Oxford, wears a distinctive leather flight jacket inspired by the ones of the period. Replicas were then made available as part of the Kingsman collection at Mr. Porter.
The Interwar Period
Great advances were made in flight between the two World Wars. As planes could now climb to even higher altitudes, aviators were exposed to even more extreme conditions (as low as −50 °C) in the unpressurized, unheated cockpits of long-range aircraft.
Over the coming years, many different iterations and models of flight and bomber jackets would be designed. In response to the changing needs of pilots, American aviator and businessman, Leslie Irvin, created the first sheepskin flight jacket intended for the extreme conditions found at high altitudes. In the US, “B” jackets were typically based on sheepskin, while “A” model jackets were leather lined with wool, cotton, or silk.
The Model Type A-1 was the first of the famous flight jackets and was issued between 1927 to 1931. It was worn by the flying superstars of the day, such as Jimmy Doolittle. This was the first jacket to feature a knitted wool waistband and cuffs, which would set the design standard for flight jackets going forward.
It also featured a capeskin exterior (a kind of sheepskin), two flapped cargo pockets, a heavy cotton lining, and horn buttons. The military eventually abandoned capeskin, as it was not durable enough to survive the utilitarian purpose it was created for.
The model Type A-2 was introduced as the successor of the Type A-1 Flight jacket by the US Army Air Forces in 1931. It was produced by a wide range of manufacturers across the US until 1943, so many different materials and design modifications were employed over that time. In general, a Type A-2 was constructed of horsehide leather, which was much harder-wearing than capeskin, and lined with silk. The sturdy snaps and reinforced pockets were still there for use in open cockpits.
The A-2’s collar could be closed completely in order to protect the wearer from the wind and the rather slim, functional cut was ideal for cramped cockpits.
In the early 1930s, the American military took inspiration from Leslie Irvin’s sheepskin flight jackets and created their own: model B-3. The hefty model B-3 flight jacket featured a wide sheepskin collar with two leather straps that could be used to fasten it tightly around the neck. This jacket, like its A-letter cousins, was modified frequently in the ’30s and ’40s.
Once the cockpits of planes were closed, the need for a less bulky version of a sheepskin flight jacket arose, and the streamlined model B-6 jacket was the result. It featured a slimmer cut, a single leather throat latch, and angled slash pockets.
World War II Bomber Jackets
As aircraft continued to evolve into the second world war, planes were now carrying non-navigational crews, with high-altitude, long-range bombing raids over Europe having become one of the main aerial missions of the war. It was during World War II that the flight jacket also became known alternatively as the bomber jacket, as the signature jacket issued to pilots flying these missions.
In 1943, the military introduced the model B-10 as a replacement for the A-2 and the B-6 jackets. As the first flight jacket with a fabric shell and an alpaca lining, it was intended to be lighter weight, less bulky, and more versatile than its predecessors. Though it was only useful for temperatures ranging from 25-55 degrees, it quickly became the favorite of fighter pilots. The B-10 was so coveted it was worn by many non-flying generals who chose to wear the jacket despite it not being part of their uniform.
The owners of A-2 flight jackets were the elite aircrew among military personnel, and they frequently decorated their jackets with artwork and embroidery detailing their combat exploits. The cachet surrounding the A-2 eventually carried over to the American public, where it became a classic garment coveted by civilians and military personnel alike.
It remains one of the two most famous models of flight jackets, along with its replacement the model G-1, decades after its official discontinuation. Even though the A-2’s successor was originally referred to as either the model M-422A or the model ANJ-3, the model G-1 is now the colloquial term for many variations on a leather flight jacket with or without a fur collar. The jacket got its start in World War II and was used extensively in various forms in the following decades.
Modern-Day Bomber Jackets
Despite its popularity, the B-10 was quickly superseded by the model B-15 in late 1944. This jacket was also short-lived, and it wasn’t long until the military shifted models yet again to the lightweight fabric MA-1 and MA-2 models as the Jet Age was beginning around 1950. These jackets were typically dark blue or sage green with a bright orange lining, and they featured knitted cuffs and a waistband. The MA-2 had a fold-down collar while the MA-1 had a knitted collar. The look of the MA-2 is what most people think of as a “bomber” jacket in the terms of modern fashion.
Bomber or Varsity Jacket?
Closely resembling one another, the bomber and varsity jacket do share similar style points. With the varsity, or “letterman,” jacket gaining in popularity from the ’60s onwards, the biggest difference will be the brighter colors used in the collegiate jacket, as opposed to the military-inspired bomber. Most notably, the sleeve color of a varsity jacket will typically be contrasting with the jacket’s body.
Flight and bomber jackets continued to evolve within the military and they were consistently popular with the American public in the last half of the 20th century. Then, in 1986, the bomber jacket, specifically the G-1, would be launched again into the sartorial spotlight with the release of the film Top Gun.
From this point onwards, there have been many different modern interpretations of the bomber jacket. You can find them in many different materials, such as polyester, linen, and suede. But there’s no denying the timeless appeal of a leather bomber jacket.
How Should a Bomber Jacket Fit?
Correct Bomber Jacket Body Fit
With their elasticized cuffs and hems, bomber jackets have been the unfortunate subject of oversized trends that seem to have come and gone since the 1980s. Needless to say, this isn’t something you’re looking for in a bomber jacket, as this will make your bomber look like a trend piece instead of a classic item of clothing.
The best fit you can hope for in a bomber jacket is close with room for mobility. This means a higher armhole is preferable, just like it would be on a good suit jacket. Paying attention to this area will allow you to raise and lower your arms comfortably while wearing your bomber jacket.
Even though most bombers feature elastic at the cuffs and hem, this shouldn’t be stretched tight when you pull on and fasten the jacket fully. The elastic should hug your wrists and waist, but you should still be able to move underneath. Too tight, and it’ll be uncomfortable, too loose and you won’t keep the cold at bay very well.
The Right Length for Bomber Jackets
In order to get the correct body length, you’ll want your bomber jacket to reach your hips. Remember, as this jacket evolved from the original flight jackets, it got shorter to ensure it wasn’t a hassle to wear the jacket while flying. So, aim to have your jacket hit at your hips. Just below is okay, but it shouldn’t cover your rear – this is a sign the jacket is too long. On the flip side, there should still be a “seal” between the waistband of your pants and the jacket’s hem, which is why aiming for hip height is going to be best.
Bomber Jacket Sleeve Length
Bomber jacket sleeve length can seem like a trickier question to answer, as it’s likely one of the few pieces of outerwear you’ll wear that has an elastic cuff. So, to get things right, treat things as if the sleeve of the jacket is like a suit jacket, and the elastic is like a shirt cuff.
Essentially, the bomber’s cuff should end roughly at the root of your thumb for a comfortable fit. It’s okay for the main body of the sleeves to overlap the elastic cuff a little, but it shouldn’t eclipse the cuff completely. This is the sign of a bomber jacket sleeve that is too long.
Bomber & Flight Jacket FAQs
Are flight jackets and bomber jackets the same thing?
The term “flight jacket” and “bomber jacket” are referring to the same piece of outerwear. Although the details may change, it is essentially a garment designed with aviation in mind.
What bomber jacket did Tom Cruise wear in Top Gun?
Tom Cruise popularized the G-1 bomber jacket in the 1986 film “Top Gun”. In the film, he wears a dark brown leather bomber with a mouton collar and numerous patches sewn to the exterior.
How are bomber jackets supposed to fit?
Your bomber jacket should allow you room to move, but you shouldn’t swim in it. Effectively, you want to aim for that comfortable middle ground: not too tight, but not too large either.
What makes it a bomber jacket?
Iconic features of a bomber jacket include a single-breasted zipped closure, roomy hip pockets, and a close-fitting hem and cuffs. Some bombers will have elasticized openings, and others will have sheepskin lining. What you choose is down to your personal needs and desires.
When did bomber jackets become popular?
Since their inception, bomber jackets have been a popular garment. But they really grew in popularity with the general public in the late ’30s and ’40s during the second world war. They also enjoyed a boom in the late ’80s with the release of Top Gun.
Do fighter pilots still wear bomber jackets?
As technologies have improved over time, pilots rarely need to wear an insulating bomber jacket while piloting aircraft, as the cockpits boast advanced temperature regulation. however, bomber jackets still prove to be popular with military personnel and the general public alike.
Why is it called a bomber jacket?
The bomber jacket got its name as it was the jacket issued to aviators who flew aircraft during bombing raids during the second world war. Because of the high altitude and low temperatures in the cockpits, pilots required a jacket that would keep them warm, thus the bomber jacket was created.
Iconic Bomber Jackets
As history has shown, there have been many different styles of bomber jackets, but they all follow a similar theme and styling. Throughout the years, the bomber jacket has been used as a symbol of Americana, and this is especially prevalent through its appearance as character-defining outerwear on the big screen.
Indiana Jones’ Bomber Jacket
Incorporating many elements of classic menswear into the character design, Indiana Jones’ famous brown leather jacket was based on the A-2 bomber jacket. Created for the original 1981 film, “Raiders of the Lost Ark”, the unique take on a bomber jacket features buckle adjusted side-gussets for variable fit.
The jacket was created for the film by Wested Leathers, a leatherwear company located in Kent, England. This jacket and the following versions featured in subsequent Indiana Jones adventures can still be purchased from the original makers.
The Top Gun Bomber Jacket
Perhaps one of the most famous bomber jackets in the history of cinema, Tom Cruise’s character Pete “Maverick” Mitchell sports an iconic leather G-1 model in the 1986 film, “Top Gun”. Decorated with various military patches and insignia throughout, this particular jacket was crafted with authenticity in mind, as the G-1 was the standard-issue jacket to naval aviators during the film’s timeline.
Boasting details such as a dark brown mouton collar and a bi-swing back for added mobility, this jacket is a perfect representation of the military’s need for functional garments. Trust a guy like “Maverick” to add his personal touch with all those patches!
Bomber Jackets in Batman
While Jack Nicholson wore suits tailored by Tommy Nutter on Savile Row for his portrayal of the Joker in the 1989 film, “Batman”, his henchmen were decked out in bomber jackets. Wearing black outfits topped with leather bombers that were something of a hybrid between the B-10 and G-1 bomber jacket models, the Joker’s goons were instantly recognizable in the Joker’s signature purple.
Sinister Stitches
Similar to the Top Gun bomber’s patches, these jackets also featured cloth patches sewn on the chest and arms. However, instead of military insignia, these patches bore the Joker’s manic visage for all the world to see.
Drive – Ryan Gosling’s Bomber Jacket
Riffing off the lighter weight MA-1 and MA-2 bomber jacket models, Ryan Gosling dons a unique quilted satin piece in 2011’s “Drive”. With angled slash pockets at the waist and high-contrast detailing throughout, this particular bomber carries a particular aura of confidence and individuality.
Of course, we have to mention the iconic golden scorpion embroidery on the back of the jacket. This particular feature was inspired by the so-called “souvenir jackets” that American GIs brought home after the post-war occupation of Japan.
How to Wear a Bomber Jacket
Do Bomber Jackets Fit with Classic Style?
Since the flight or bomber jacket has historically been connected to workwear, it doesn’t necessarily have a distinct sartorial purpose in the way a navy blazer or a pair of seersucker pants has. What this means is there aren’t many occasions or events in which a bomber or flight jacket will be specified in the dress code.
Ultimately, this is a jacket that you choose to buy and wear specifically because you like the look, making it a flexible jacket to have around when you want to create an interesting combination. A bomber, even though it was part of a uniform, has always been more casual in nature since it was paired with other similarly performance-driven clothing, such as flight suits and khakis. Therefore, it’s easier to have fun with since there aren’t many sartorial “rules” to consider.
Casual Clothing is King
Choose the Best Bomber Jacket
Choose a plain, unadorned bomber for the most classic look. Whether you decide to go for leather, suede, or fabric, you’ll want to choose something in a classic color, such as shades of brown, blue, or green. Bomber jackets do also come in black, but tread carefully to avoid looking like you’ve mismatched your formalities. Ultimately, bombers are casual jackets.
What to Wear Under a Bomber Jacket
A bomber jacket will always look good with a t-shirt as a base layer. If you want to replicate the iconic Top Gun look, then opt for a classic white T-shirt. Add some good-quality denim jeans and a pair of sturdy boots, and you’ll be set. This look is a great way to incorporate classic but casual elements that you may have in your wardrobe. Bear in mind that leather bomber jackets will look slightly dressier than fabric models.
Layering Tip
Don’t wear a bomber or a flight jacket over another jacket such as a blazer or sports coat. Not only is this a clash in formality, but it would also add too much bulk to your outfit. If you need extra warmth, go for knitwear.
If you want to increase the formality of your bomber jacket, then you could always employ the use of more casual button-up shirts such as flannel shirts, or perhaps OCBD shirts. Because both of these styles are inherently more relaxed than a typical dress shirt, they are great to pair with bomber jackets if you prefer to don a shirt with a collar. To elevate the look, don’t let your shirt hang much more than an inch lower than the hem of a bomber jacket, or you’ll end up looking sloppy; tuck in your shirt or wear a shorter shirt.
Best Bottoms for Bomber Jackets
In a similar train of thought, smarter trouser options include menswear staples such as khakis, chinos, and corduroys. Don’t go for super formal options such as separate suit trousers in cloths like worsted wool or linen, as neither of these makes sense when wearing a bomber jacket; worsted wool is far too formal to pair with a bomber and linen is best for hot weather wear, so it’s confusing to wear it with a jacket that’s designed to insulate you and keep you warm.
Footwear Options for Bomber Jacket Outfits
Choose to pair it with leather or canvas shoes that reflect the functional-cool aesthetic of the jacket, such as work boots or brogues. If you’re choosing leather footwear, you can enjoy some unique textures such as pebble grain or cordovan leather. These textures pair beautifully with casual clothing like bomber jackets, so compliment this choice with colors in the mid to light range of browns and burgundy.
Other shoe choices such as loafers may work, but as a general rule of thumb, you’ll want to avoid overly casual shoes like athletic trainers and skip dressier shoes such as black Oxfords. These styles will clash with your bomber jacket by being either too relaxed or too formal.
Best Bomber Jacket Brands
There are three main ways to buy a bomber or flight jacket: vintage, reproduction, or fashion. You can buy a genuine vintage flight or bomber jacket, but they often fetch many thousands of dollars and the sizing may be a challenge for the average guy. Since the quality of the original jacket was so high, many vintage pieces are still in great shape, but these will command higher prices.
Vintage Tips
eBay and specialized collectors are typically the best resources for authentic or vintage bomber and flight jackets. If you’re shopping in person, you can follow Preston and Raphael’s tips for vintage shopping. If you prefer to shop online, then Raphael has created a handy guide to ensure you get the best deals when scouting out vintage goods.
If vintage is not for you, look at buying a reproduction bomber jacket. A reproduction is best for you if you value an authentic look, high quality, and longevity. You don’t always need at least $500-1500 to spend on a leather jacket, but you’ll usually get what you pay for. Keep in mind that reproductions of fabric jackets are typically much more affordable.
If you want to spend less or prefer a more modern take on the bomber or flight jacket, a fashion jacket is the option for you. These will be mostly available at high street retailers, but they could be subject to current trends which may not give you the authentic look you want. They may also be made from lesser-quality materials, meaning they won’t last as long as vintage or reproduction bomber jackets. You’ll pay less on the ticket price, but this may result in a poor cost per wear.
For reproduction jackets in leather, Eastman Leather (which we wrote a profile about here), Cockpit USA, and US Wings offer a range of leather options in various models. US Wings also offers nylon flight jackets, which is great if you prefer a more modern look.
Otherwise, Alpha Industries offers reasonably priced fabric reproduction jackets and were the original supplier of the Top Gun bomber jacket.
As we previously mentioned, Wested Leather is also another brand to consider, as they still produce their original Indiana Jones flight jacket. If, however, you’d prefer a different style, they have other options available, too.
Do you have a favorite style of bomber or flight jacket–or perhaps a favorite maker? Let us know in the comments!
Outfit Rundown
In today’s video, I’m wearing a leather jacket in a brown shade of suede. It’s in a flight style from The Jacket Maker, who sent over some jackets to our team, but this post is 100% not sponsored. You can see that it features two flap pockets right on the hips, and it has a button closure. I love this suede jacket because I really love suede as a material and it works really well with the casual nature of what I like to wear.
Underneath, I have a chunky gray sweater in a commando style, very similar to what James Bond would wear. This is from L.L. Bean. My jeans are a pair of selvedge jeans from Brave Star. I’m wearing a pair of the brass boots from Grant Stone. These are in a waxy, brown commander leather. My socks are a Fort Belvedere prototype in a red, diamond pattern.
And since we’re talking about pieces of aviation history, I’m wearing a Cartier Santos on my wrist. This was sent over from our friends over at Delray Watch. Again, they’re not a sponsor of our channel, but they send us watches, and we always say, “thank you!”