Brogue detailing exists on some of the most iconic and popular footwear options, from styles of boots to Oxford shoes, loafers, and Derby shoes. But what exactly is broguing? What’s the history behind brogue shoes? And how can they fit into your wardrobe? Read on to find out.
Brogue Shoes & Boots: The Definitive Video Guide
What Does “Brogues” Mean? The Brogue Shoe Defined
Though the term ‘brogue’ also refers to an Irish accent and other regional accents from the United Kingdom, a brogue for the fashionable man is a dress shoe that features the decorative element known as broguing.
The Merriam–Webster dictionary describes broguing (brogue: ing – noun) as an ornamentation of shoes employing heavy perforations and pinking. Therefore, it stands to reason that any shoe with perforations, whether it be an Oxford, Derby, wholecut, or a Budapester, could be considered a pair of brogues.
Common Brogue Misconceptions
There is often confusion with the terms “Oxford”, “Derby”, and “Brogue”. An Oxford shoe is characterized by its lacing system, or to be specific, by the shoelace eyelets that are attached under the vamp. This is called ‘closed lacing.’ On the other hand, a Derby shoe has ‘open lacing’ where the eyelets are attached to the top of the vamp.
It’s important to remember that Oxfords are not always brogues, and brogues are not always Oxfords. The closure method for the type of shoes or boots will have one name, such as an Oxford or Derby, and the broguing refers to the decoration present on the uppers. When someone refers to their footwear as a pair of “Brogues” you can assume there is some form of perforation or detailing on them, but you can’t assume the closure style.
“Oxfords, not brogues.”
Harry hart – Kingsman: The Secret Service
While initially, Oxfords were plain formal shoes, they subsequently evolved into a range of styles both formal and casual. Some of these styles feature broguing or perforations along the edges of the individual leather pieces and thus can be called brogues.
Sit back and relax as Raphael guides you through the world of men’s brogues. Find out if they’re the most versatile shoes or not, explore a variety of styles, and learn how to incorporate this staple shoe into your classic gentleman’s wardrobe.
The Origins and History of Brogue Shoes
The brogue was originally designed in Scotland and Ireland as a shoe suitable for wearing while working outdoors. The Irish and Scottish countryside is wet and characterized by bogs that made life very difficult for the people who worked there and, as you might expect, their feet took a beating.
They needed shoes that were suitable for rough outdoor work and terrain. The Irish word “brog” means a rough or stout shoe. Interestingly this term supposedly originated from the (rather harsh) perception that the Irish spoke as if they had a shoe in their mouths!
The original brogues were rudimentary shoes made with untanned animal hide; their distinctive feature was a series of perforations and serrations (broguing) of each piece of leather that was used in their construction. The purpose of these perforations was to allow water to drain from the shoes.
Another feature of their design was that they were laced with leather tangs and did not have the tongue as in other shoes; they also had high lacing that wrapped above the ankles. This design feature kept the lace knot free from muck and dirt and prevented the shoes from being caught while walking in the mud. This basic design is now known as the ‘ghillie brogue’ and is often considered the standard style for traditional Scottish dress footwear. It’s not often that a shoe can go from bog to ballroom!
Over time they were adopted by country gentlemen as outdoor country walking shoes. It is because of these very roots that they were not considered appropriate wear for other social or business occasions during that time. However, things changed in the twentieth century when the brogue was used as a template for fashionable women’s footwear.
At this point, the brogue details were now used solely for decorative purposes. Famous celebrity women such as the actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn incorporated it into their signature style of daring masculine fashion choices. The model Twiggy also favored the shoe, reportedly made by George Cleverley after she challenged him to design her pair of flat shoes. All this led to a rise in its popularity. Due to this influence, perceptions began to change and slowly the brogue began to be considered appropriate wear, even for men for most occasions both social and business.
By the 1920s, men’s brogues were extremely popular, especially in the United States but also in England and continental Europe. The brogue was now an integral part of people’s wardrobes. Stars like Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, and Cary Grant all wore brogue shoes often, and you can regularly see men of the Golden Age of Style frequently pictured in a pair of brogues.
What Else Did Men REALLY Wear in the 1920s?
Since then, brogues have become increasingly common in everyday life. As stricter fashion rules have been relaxed, brogues have taken on quite a smart look, being featured in many formal outfits as well as the more traditional casual look that brogues are known for.
Brogue Characteristics: What Makes it a Brogue?
Without a doubt, brogues come in a wide variety of styles. Regardless of the exact details that feature, there are some basic characteristics you are likely to find in most brogues.
Brogue Characteristics
1
Perforations
One of the most typical characteristics of a pair of brogues is the decorative perforations, or holes, that form part of the design. Where these used to serve a practical purpose of moisture drainage, they are now purely decorative.
2
Toe Caps
Whether it’s a classic straight toe cap or an elongated wingtip, many brogues feature a cap of some variety. This is to ensure this additional piece receives the decorative perforations before being stitched to the rest of the shoe.
3
Medallion
A medallion is usually displayed on the front of the toe, made of smaller perforations than the broguing that features on the edges. There are many medallion designs out there, and you can even request a custom medallion if you’re getting a pair of bespoke brogues.
It’s also worth noting that these characteristics remain the same regardless of the construction or style of footwear. It doesn’t matter whether the shoe’s sole has Goodyear-welting or Blake stitching, and it can be a shoe, boot, or loafer – if the characteristics listed above are present, then it’s a brogue as well.
Brogue Shoes FAQs
What makes a shoe a brogue?
The brogue part of a shoe traditionally comes from additional decorative perforations present on the shoe’s upper. This can be in the form of a simple medallion or a full brogue with a wing tip and perforations bordering the sides.
What’s the difference between an Oxford and a brogue?
Thanks to the Kingsman film series, many people may be confused by thinking that Oxfords and brogues are different types of shoes, however, an Oxford can also be a pair of brogues, and vice versa. The “Oxford” refers to the closed lacing system, and the “Brogue” refers to the decorative perforations.
Can men wear brogues?
Men can absolutely wear brogues! They are a staple of a well-dressed gentleman’s wardrobe, and there are many variations of the brogue that will suit a range of tastes.
Are brogues still fashionable?
Historically, brogues have always been stylish. Whatever is in fashion will always change, but an elegant pair of brogues will always be in style.
When should you not wear brogues?
As they are more casual, brogues should be avoided when very high degrees of formality are required. Therefore, brogues are best left in the closet when attending boardroom meetings, black-tie, and white-tie events.
Can you wear jeans with brogues?
Denim jeans can be worn with brogues, but it’s best to get both your denim and brogues right first. Your jeans should be in a classic cut, not too slim, and without additional details or weathering. You can then pair them with some mid-brown brogues for a particularly classic relaxed look.
Can you wear brogues with a dinner suit?
Simply put, no – you can’t wear brogues with a dinner suit. The style is far too casual for the level of formality required for eveningwear.
What is the purpose of broguing?
Originally, the broguing perforations served the purpose of draining the shoes worn by bog workers. As the ground is heavily saturated, their footwear needed to have the ability to release moisture quickly. As the style developed, the broguing became purely decorative.
A Selection of Classic Brogue Styles
Various designs and styles of brogues have evolved over time. We’ve included a selection of the most popular, as well as a few unusual styles that may not be as common but are no less elegant.
Full Brogues or Wingtips
“Full brogue shoes” or “wingtips” are terms that can be used interchangeably to describe a pair of brogues that have a pointed cap toe that extends along both sides of the shoe and usually ends near the ball of the foot. When seen from above the cap is shaped like a ‘W’ or ‘M’ depending on the viewpoint. It features broguing along its edges and typically decorative broguing in the center of the toe which is called a medallion.
An Elegant Alternative
The wing tip on a pair of brogues is usually an additional piece of material added on top of the shoe’s existing toe. However, there is a style of brogues that are known as “Imitation Brogues”. Constructed like a wholecut shoe, this style still features stitching and perforations, but on one layer of leather instead of multiple pieces. The style is very streamlined and elegant, and makes a great choice if you struggle with discomfort from multiple layers of leather on your feet.
Spectator Shoes
Spectator shoes are a variation of brogues that are made in two contrasting colors. Usually, the toe and heel caps and sometimes the lace panels are in a darker color than the main body of the shoe.
Typically the main body of the shoe is made of white or off-white leather or canvas fabric, but lately, all kinds of materials, colors, and textures have been utilized including tweed.
Blind Brogues
A pair of blind brogues specifically relates to the wingtip toe cap variety, however, there is only broguing along the edges and no medallion on the toe.
Longwing Brogues
Longwing brogues differ from full brogues or wingtips in that the ‘wings’ of the wingtip wrap around the full length of the shoe and meet at a center seam at the heel. Interestingly, they may be referred to as ‘English brogues’ in the US and as ‘American brogues’ in the UK.
As this style has the effect of elongating your foot, most longwing brogues are made in the Derby style to create balance. Of course, Oxford longwing brogues do exist, too.
Austerity Brogue
A slightly confusing term, as these “brogues” actually feature no broguing at all! A wingtip toe cap without any broguing (either along the edge of the toe cap or in its center) can be called an austerity brogue (due to the somewhat ironic lack of broguing).
This can be a puzzling style of brogues to a newcomer, as technically speaking it goes against all of the criteria to be called a brogue! However, many shoemakers offer this style under the universal name of an austerity brogue, as the wingtip toe cap is so closely related to brogues in general.
Semi or Half Brogues
Semi or half brogues have a straight toe cap without extensions or wings and feature broguing both along the cap’s edge and sides. You’ll also see a medallion on the toe cap. This style was first designed by the famous London shoemakers John Lobb Ltd in 1937.
Today, you will find many variations of the semi-brogue, including an inverted V cap and a second, recessed piece of brogued leather between the cap and the laces.
Quarter Brogues
Quarter brogues, like semi or half-brogues, have toe caps without points and extensions or wings. However, they differ from the semi or half brogues in that they have broguing only along the edge of the cap and they do not have a medallion.
Ghillie Brogues
Ghillie brogues are the standard style for traditional formal Scottish dress footwear, including a black version for evening wear.
They are a full brogue or wingtip but differ in that they do not have a tongue and feature long laces that wrap around the legs above the ankle and are tied below the calf. Versions of the ghillie brogue are also available without ankle laces.
U-Cap or U-Tip Brogue
A U-Cap or U-Tip brogue is a popular adaptation of a full brogue in which the cap is U-shaped rather than pointed like a wingtip and wraps around the vamp of the shoe.
Closing Time
Brogues can feature almost any dress shoe closure style or lacing systems, however, these are not defining characteristics of a brogue except in the case of the Ghillie brogue. Some common closure styles available are laced Oxfords, Derbys, buckled monk straps (double and single), side gussets, loafers, and boots (with or without laces).
How to Wear Brogues: Wear Your Brogues with Style
Brogues are incredibly versatile, and most men interested in classic style will have many variations in their closets for a range of outfits. Today, the right style of full brogue could be considered a great shoe to wear with a three-piece pin-stripe suit, and a quarter brogue in black or oxblood is a perfect business shoe.
Brogues and Business Wear: Formal Suits and Business Attire
When worn as a dress shoe with a suit, it is better to opt for either half brogues or quarter brogues as they are not too elaborate and maintain the formality of the outfit. A full brogue is mostly too casual for a worsted suit but will work with tweed or other country fabrics.
That being said, you should be able to make a full brogue work if you pay attention to the details; ensure the sole is slim and neat to the foot for starters, and smooth, well-polished leather will help too. The imitation brogue is a particularly elegant style of full brogue that is your best bet when thinking about the boardroom.
Brogues and Business Casual: Everyday Office Attire
For most semi–formal occasions where a full suit is not required and a blazer or a sports coat will suffice, the wingtip or muted spectator makes for an ideal choice. It maintains just the right amount of formality and casualness, making it perfect for business casual environments.
Every man should have at least one pair of brogue shoes and once you increase the number of shoes in your collection, probably half of your shoes or more will have some sort of broguing. If versatility is your goal, the oxblood semi-brogue is probably the way to go but a chestnut brown will also work with many outfits. Of course, if you work at a bank, law firm, or a similar white-collar job, go with black quarter brogues.
Brogues for the Weekend: Wearing Brogues Casually
In a casual setting, the brogue can be paired with jeans, chinos, and most other casual trousers. Brogues also work especially well with Blazers, Hacking Jackets, turtlenecks, sports coats, casual suits in lighter colors and tweed, or even a Harrington jacket.
Play With Different Styles
Wearing brogues casually offers the best opportunity to experiment with different styles. Suede full or half brogues in various shades of brown are absolutely timeless. Tan is a wonderful color for country boots, and you can also experiment with boots in oxblood cordovan.
As a rule of thumb, always bear in mind that a shoe is less formal the more broguing it has and vice versa. As such, full brogues are perfect when combined with anything related to country attire, and semi-brogues in a darker brown color are very versatile and can be worn with tweed as well as casual worsted sports coats and brown suits.
Simply Spectating
Spectator shoes are not everybody’s cup of tea and can be difficult to pull off. If you have confidence in your style you can wear them anywhere you want – except for formal occasions of course. The basic rules for matching shoe colors with the rest of your outfit apply here as well.
While some men wear brogues with shorts, this look can seem a bit imbalanced. Go for a more appropriate shoe if you’re wearing shorts, like a pair of loafers, espadrilles, or boat shoes.
Brogues and Black Tie? Avoid Brogues with Evening Wear
While it’s entirely possible to see all manner of styles on the red carpet, brogues are never appropriate for black tie or white tie events, unless you wear black ghillie brogues as part of Scottish Highland dress.