Here are three watches with eye-catching dials by independent watchmakers that caught my eye in the summer of 2021.
Fratello × Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green
The Fratello × Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green isn’t the first watch our friends at Fratello have done in collaboration with a watch brand – that honor belongs to the 2017 Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday Limited Edition. But it is the first to my knowledge made with an independent brand.
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Fratello x Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green on the wrist
And to do it this time with the popular Czapek & Cie. Antarctique was a great idea for Fratello’s predominantly sporty watch-loving audience. In 2020 Czapek & Cie. introduced the Antarctique in two variations: a 99-piece Terre Adélie “subscription” edition that sold out very quickly and a ten-piece Orion Nebula edition with a hand-painted dial.
Having handled the Czapek & Cie. Antarctique at Geneva Watch Days 2020, I can attest to the well-made nature and sporty appeal of this independent brand’s first foray into the steel sport watch market, a segment that has exploded over the last couple years.
The new variation, Fratello x Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green has a subdued, clear style that, while not trying to be a peacock, docks into the current green-dial trend (“low-hanging fruit,” as its co-creator admitted). It is a solid, attractive alternative for people in the market for a steel sports watch that is both rare and independent.
The stainless steel case of the Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green has a slightly tonneau, vaguely retro-inspired shape that differs from the current market leaders in this segment. Instead of protruding lugs it has a sharp downward break to the bracelet, which makes it comfortable for a variety of wrists.
The watch’s presentation is clean and dynamic yet simple; it feels cohesive and will be deservedly popular.
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Caliber SXH5 visible through the display back of the Fratello x Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green
The movement is incredible, too. Caliber SXH5 debuted in the Antarctique in 2020, a movement that takes inspiration from historical pocket watches yet feels entirely modern. Caliber SXH5 is also designed as a base for future developments and features a high-torque mainspring that can be used to power later added complications.
Combining a lot of internal angles, the right amount of skeletonization, and a sandblasted blackish finish, Caliber SXH5 feels like a bold combination of classic watchmaking and modern production methods – something that Czapek & Cie. has done well since its inception. This boutique brand was built upon the concept of using historical inspiration to produce fantastic contemporary watches at a (relatively) attainable price.
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Fratello x Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green
The entire package provides a very high-end steel sports watch that will fly under the radar (a bonus for many consumers) that is also powered by a unique movement. Minimal and clean with just the right touch of flair, the Fratello x Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green is a clear price/performance proposition for me.
You can read the rather personal backstory to this watch on Fratello.
Quick Facts Fratello x Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green
Case: 40.5 x 11.3 mm, stainless steel with integrated, quick-change steel bracelet
Movement: automatic Caliber SXH5.01 with free-sprung balance, 28,800 vph/4Hz frequency, 65-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: €17,206.61 (excluding VAT); delivery commences in October 2021
Remark: comes with an additional rubber strap
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