Cartier has always used the brand’s extensive archives in creating their novelties for trade fairs. Enthusiasts have been eager to see what comes out of the Collection Privé, the leading platform for reviving previous watch models. This year as part of its 2023 novelties, the collection revives the Privé Tank Normale, its reinterpretation of the first Tank model.
With a new generation of watch enthusiasts collecting vintage Cartier timepieces for the past few years, the brand has clearly noticed and run with this trend. Fortunately, the brand’s design team has done their homework to design this collection.
For me, the yellow gold variant is the clear standout from the new collection. Classically proportioned and reminiscent of another Normale previously owned by the American First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, with the usual Roman numerals and blued sword hands, albeit with a much wearable case. I would have preferred that it used Breguet hands, but that would make it way too similar to the original, but that can be forgiven.
The Tank Normale take its roots in the original design by Louis Cartier in 1917 based on Renault FT light tanks utilised by the French army. Because of its timeless design, the Tank has been restyled or reincarnated in various shapes and sizes through the decades.
Executed in typical Cartier style, the new collection takes codes from its iconic design with slight tweaks on the dial. The dainty-sized standard model captures the 1917 original with its bevelled sapphire crystal. There is also a quirk on the seven o’clock marker where the year “1917” has swapped out the usual Cartier branding.
Each case has been given a satin brush finish and polish, which the brand states are an ode to 1970s styling. They are configured in either yellow gold or platinum with the option of an integrated bracelet offering, a first to be done for the Prive lineup.
With all its beauty, the Tank Normale is powered by Cartier manual calibres, namely the cal. 070. Due to being compact in their thickness, the watches have a very short power reserve ranging from 38 hours.
Key facts and price
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Ref. CRWGTA0108 (yellow gold)
Ref. CRWGTA0110 (yellow gold with bracelet)
Ref. CRWGTA0109 (platinum)
Ref. CRWGTA0111 (platinum with bracelet)
Diameter: 32.6 mm by 25.7 mm
Height: 6.85 mm
Material: Yellow gold or platinum
Water resistance: Not applicable
Movement: Cal. 070
Features: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours
Strap: Alligator leather strap with pin buckle or matching bracelet
Limited edition: 600 pieces, with 200 examples per standard model and 100 examples per model with matching bracelet
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers
Yellow gold: €27,900 or 44,300 Singapore dollars
Yellow gold with bracelet: €41,800 or 66,500 Singapore dollars
Platinum: €31,400 or 49,800 Singapore dollars
Platinum with bracelet: €48,200 or 76,500 Singapore dollars
Prices include local taxes
For more, visit Cartier.com